Bovec, Slovenia - Župnijska Cerkev sv. Urha
It’s not often that we get to visit churches outside the UK
We’ve just returned from a trip to Bovec in Slovenia, a country I’ve never visited before and we were bowled over by the sheer beauty of the place. We stayed in this particular location as part of a kayaking adventure along the River Sǒca, a beautiful mountain river that starts in the Julian Alps and flows eventually out into the Adriatic. It’s known as the Emerald River for a good reason - whilst the River is not the topic for this post, in a way it kind of is because it provides for the people in this region nowadays as a resource for Trout, heavily regulated of course; and as a destination for water sports nutters like us guys!
I did however find time to seek out something for my Church project and I didn’t have far to walk. Bovec has its own beautiful church called Župnijska Cerkev sv. Urha.
More on its history in a moment. First of all, here is something I recorded from outside the church to capture my thoughts at the time and along with it some of the other sounds that my iPhone mic could pick up. Have a listen and you’ll find out what they were.
The Parish Church of St Ulrich.
The church dates back to at least 1192, though the current building was mostly rebuilt in the 17th century. There’s a bit of everything here: a Neoromanesque exterior, Gothic arches, and a richly decorated Baroque interior that feels grand yet deeply local. Above the entrance are statues of St Ulrich, St Peter, and St Paul, keeping watch over the town below.
Step inside and you’re met with beautifully detailed frescoes across the ceiling and chancel, along with a main altar made of red stone from the region. Look closely and you’ll spot even older murals in the presbytery, likely dating back to the 15th century — a reminder of how many generations have come and gone through this space.
Like much of the area, the church has had its fair share of turmoil. It was damaged during World War I, used by soldiers, and later restored under Italian administration. Then came the earthquakes in the late 1990s and early 2000s, which cracked its walls but thankfully didn’t bring them down. Each time, it’s been lovingly rebuilt, and it continues to be a working parish today.
If you’re visiting, you’ll likely find the doors open — it’s free to enter and usually quiet during the day. Sunday Mass is at 10 a.m., which can be a lovely way to experience the space as it was intended, with locals gathering a
